$55 billion for sneakers? Yeap. That’s the approximate yearly revenue and it almost seems irreverent to speak of a time when sneakers were mere vessels of comfort and practicality. Because while you’d think that insane number corresponds to a sports-related consumer base you’d be wrong. It’s streetwear that is the driving force behind the sneaker boom.
It really wasn’t until the 70s when Farah Fawsett’s iconic aerobics wear inspired the early athleisure look, that people saw sneakers as a fashionable footwear option and not just exercise gear. Then, in 1985, Michael Jordan signed a history-making endorsement deal with Nike and his black and red Air Jordan’s became the shoe of the century. This was only rivaled by the signing of music pioneers Run DMC to Adidas lamented by their groundbreaking track “My Adidas”, putting the two giants in a deadlock battle for the ages.
Adopted by skaters, surfers and hip-hop artists the humble sneaker left the court and took to the streets. Those who shape and influence streetwear made it part of their get-up creating a long-lasting marriage of the two cultures.
The connection is obvious. To put it plainly, if streetwear demands sartorial self expression not be at the cost of comfort then sneakers are at the core of this philosophy. Breaking down the rules of fashion and the boundaries of gender and culture is what it’s all about. So forget about “no sneakers with fancy outfits” and leaving your runners at the gym. The ability to “sneak up” on someone -which is how sneakers got their name- is now firmly rooted in statement-making streetstyle.
Adidas, Nike, Reebok, New Balance have existed long before influencers and street-wearing bloggers came about. But the functional space they once-inhabited is now becoming a fashion statement as inescapable as Stussy-branded t-shirts and logo-adorned painter’s caps. They are part of the identity of streetwear and are re-emerging on the scene with the excitement of a newly founded, novel idea.
And there’s a lot of money in the game. Take Adidas for instance. Their Yeezy sneakers Collection, a collaboration between the brand and Kanye West consistently sells out as if they were practically free. Which they definitely are not. But you’ve got people who know nothing about Kanye’s music buying them and people who are obsessed with him buying them because they are buying the hype, and they’re willing to pay good money for it. There lies the secret of success. A seemingly niche market that appeals to the masses.
Sneaker culture is nothing new, as sneakerheads, sneaker collectors, will testify to. But when names like Jeff Staple come into the game it turns the whole thing on its head. His collaborations with Nike (the 2005 SD Low Dunk Pigeon) and New Balance are something of the stuff of sneaker wet dreams. You’ve got streetwear brands like Supreme, Stussy, StrangeLove, Off-White, and more designing limited editions sneaker collections. Streetwear designer Melody Ehsany became the first woman ever to create a pair of Jordans.
Streetwear has been undeniably on the rise and social media is another key contributing factor. From Mike’s Air Jordans, Kanye’s Yeezys, Cardi B’s and Kendrick Lamar’s Reeboks to luxury fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood x Asics and Alexander Wang x Adidas, celebrity collaborations create a highly profitable, highly competitive global market. That’s step one. Then, tastemakers and influencers take that product and force it into the mainstream. Our Instagram feeds are constantly filled with blogger’s street style shots of them wearing their beloved sneakers. As someone who for years swore off sneakers I can now see the appeal. Whether it’s comfort or being force-fed the idea that sneakers can be worn with anything, anytime, anywhere more and more people, like me, are becoming proselytized at the altar of the sneaker. The way we consume and digest fashion is also becoming more and more fast-paced. Add to that society adapting to the idea of more relaxed workspaces and you can see why people gravitate towards an item that is not only practical but also an everlasting classic.
Maybe it’s the fact that what started off as a tool for athleticism became a symbol of youthful rebellion much like streetwear itself, the sneaker has far-surpassed its utilitarian function. It’s a flex, sure, but it’s also steeped in the need for authenticity, originality and appreciating history. Coming back to Mike Jordan the thing is that he was a kid from Brooklyn who went on to win six championships with the Bulls. He achieved greatness and that inspires people. So off course they want to walk in his shoes. Same goes for most sneakers. They have meaning because they’re associated with well-loved icons of music, sports and art. They have a historical cultural significance, whether it be the rise of hip-hop or London’s skate scene in the 90s. Even if kids today weren’t alive in the 80s and 90s they still want to own the thing, to have a piece of history and show off their appreciation. Either that or we’re all just hypebeasts. Whatever the case, sneaker culture and streetwear belong to each other.
